Guide to the Modern Sites of the Washington Territory Indian Wars
complied by Mark A. Berhow
used with permission and much thanks
This section is intended to be used as a traveler's guide to the locations of historic sites of the Washington Indian Wars of the1850s. Many of these locations are marked by monuments and interpretive signs today. Symbols following the name of the site indicate the following:
I - interpretive center or museum
B - historical building(s) and/or reconstruction
P - park picnic grounds, C - park campground
M - monument or interpretive sign
x - site only, no marker
NPS - National Park Service
SP - State Park
Much of the information for this section came from two excellent historical guide books; Exploring Washington's Past: A Road Guide to History, by Ruth Kirk and Carmela Alexander and a Tour Guide to Western Forts by Herbert Hart. The areas surrounding many of the markers are private property. Reminder: Whenever looking at historical sites that are on private property seek first permission from the owner. Explain who you are, why you are there and what you will be doing. Also, while many of these markers are on public lands there maybe a cost involved to see them; e.g. state parks)
Along the Lower Columbia River
Bolon Markers (M) The murder of Indian Agent Andrew J. Bolon by the son of Yakama Chief Showaway in September 1855, was one of the events that triggered the war. A marker on a county road, 5 miles northeast of Goldendale, is substantially south of the actual site on the old trail between Celilo Falls and the Yakima Valley. A second marker is at the actual site at Wahk-shum spring. From Goldendale, follow Columbus Street north until it becomes Bloodgood, then Pine Forest. After 5.5 miles turn north on Cedar Valley Road and continue 4 miles to the intersection with Monument Rd, the location of the first monument. The second marker at Wahk-Shum spring is approximately 4.5 miles north on Monument Rd. (Note: Monument Rd is primitive road which means that it is a dirt road and generally not taken care by any government transportation department. You may want to look at the condition of the road before traveling any further by vehicle.)
Fort Vancouver (I, P, M, B, NPS) This site in the modern city of Vancouver, Washington, was the area headquarters post for the British Hudson's Bay Company fur trading empire of the early 1800s. After the area became American Territory, this site was the headquarters post for the United States Army's military operations in the Northwest for more than a century. The Hudson's Bay post operated until its lands were sold to the Army in 1860. The buildings were destroyed by fire in 1866. The National Park Service has reconstructed the stockade, the bastion, and some of the buildings of the old trading post. The Army post was the supply depot for Pacific Northwest military operations until after World War II, when it was reduced to a semi-active post for reserve and national guard units which still use it today. The only buildings dating from the 1850s are some of the extensively remodeled officers' quarters, renovated by the city of Vancouver in 1989. The stately houses of officers' row run parallel to Evergreen Blvd and overlook the post and the National Historic Site. The entrance to the army post is at the intersection of Fort Vancouver Way and Evergreen Blvd, one block south of Mill Plain Blvd and one block east of Interstate 5. The entrance to the National Historic Site is 1/4 mile further to the east along Evergreen Blvd.
Monticello (M) The site of the 1852 meeting that resulted in the petition for the creation of the Territory of Columbia is marked by interpretive signs in downtown Longview at the intersection of Olympia, 18th, and Maple avenues.
The Walla Walla and Snake River Valleys
Fort Nez Perce (Old Fort Walla Walla) (M) The site of the Hudson's Bay post at the mouth of the Walla Walla River (1818-1855) is now covered by the backwater behind McNary Dam. A historical marker is located beside U.S. Hwy 12, 1 mile north of the crossing of the Walla Walla, 15 miles south of Pasco.
Fort Taylor (x) The site of the rock bastion supply camp for George Wright's 1858 campaign is now underwater. It is located next to the mouth of the Tuccanon River, 5 miles west of the town of Starbuck on State Hwy 261.
Fort Walla Walla (U.S.A.) (B, I, C, M) This military post was established in 1856 and moved twice before settling on this site in 1858. Units stationed here saw action in every major Northwest Indian war in the late 1800s. The post was inactivated in 1911 and later turned over to the Veterans Administration, which operates a hospital at the site today. The only 1850s-era buildings remaining are the officers' quarters, now used as doctor's quarters. Part of the reservation, including the post cemetery, is now a city park. A historical museum is also located there. The fort is located south of downtown Walla Walla just off of State Hwy 125 (Fifteenth Street), near the city limits. The hospital and park have separate entrances.
Frenchtown Battlefield (M) The battle between Lt. Colonel James Kelly's Oregon volunteers and the Walla Walla and Palouse Indians began near the modern day town of Touchet, and continued over ten miles eastward to a cluster of French-Canadian homesteads then known as Frenchtown in December 1855. A small marker commemorates the battle 1 mile west of the turn-off to the Whitman Mission N.H.S. on U.S. Hwy 12. This was also the location of St. Rose Mission which was burnt during the Rains Expedition of 1855.
Lapwai (I, M, P, NP) The site of Henry Spaulding's mission among the Nez Perces (1838-1847, and again in the 1860s) is now part of the Nez Perce National Historical Park. The interpretive center has exhibits depicting the history and traditions of the Nez Perce tribe. The center is located in Spaulding on the Nez Perce reservation, 10 miles east of Lewiston, Idaho, on U.S. Hwy 95. Many other sites which are significant to the history of the tribe are marked on a driving tour around the reservation and the surrounding area.
Timothy's Crossing (C, M, S) A large state park is at the site of Nez Pérce Chief Timothy's winter home, near where the Steptoe expedition crossed the Snake in 1858. The park is 7 miles west of Clarkston on U.S. Hwy 12.
Walla Walla Council Grounds (M) The site of the treaty councils of 1855 and 1856 were along the shores of Mill Creek where the city of Walla Walla is located today. Monuments commemorating the 1855 event are located on the eastern side of the grounds of Whitman College near downtown Walla Walla near the corner of Stanton and University. A bronze statute of Chief Peo-Peo-Mox-Mox now stands at the corner of Third and Rose Streets in Walla Walla, it was unveiled during the 150th anniversary of the treaty council in June of 2005.
Whitman Mission (I, M, P, NP) The site of Marcus and Narcissia Whitman's mission at Waiilatpu (Place of the Rye Grass) (1838-1847) is now a National Historical Site. In the years following the massacre, the site was often used as a camp for the volunteers in the campaigns of 1848 and 1855-1856. There is an interpretive center at the park today and a footpath leads past the mass grave of the massacre victims, the memorial shaft, the restored mill pond, and the locations of the mission buildings. The site is 6 miles west of Walla Walla just off of U.S. Hwy 12.
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